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Tips for successful application
and firing fusible Decals to your glass.
This is a simple process but we recommend you read thru the following information to insure successful firing.
APPLICATION
1. CLEAN GLASS is a must! Remove all dirt, oils, grime, etc. Non-soapy ammonia with micro fiber rags and alcohol works best. Avoid touching your glass surfaces with your hands, handle by the edges and with clean hands.
2. REMOVE THE WAX PAPER BARRIER BEFORE SOAKING!
3. Use a good pair of small scissors and cut about 1/6 inch away, when trimming it from the decal card. Often, the decal design will blend into the glass color when transferring, making it invisible. The outside edge will be your guide in determining the correct position.
4. When working small, a good pair or two of curved-tipped tweezers is handy.
5. Wet the surface of the glass where applying the decal. This allows the decal to be easily moved into position. You can use a small bottle to mist the surface.
6. To apply the decal, slide it slightly off of the paper and hold the exposed paper edge with the tweezers. Position and hold the exposed decal edge in place on the glass surface with a paper towel covered finger while pulling the paper backing from underneath. Hold the decal in place and blot excess water. Continue to gently blot, using a rolling motion until ALL THE WATER AND AIR BUBBLES ARE COMPLETELY GONE. A small squeegee (i.e. an old credit card will do) is sometimes useful. Increase the blotting pressure until the entire decal, including the edges, are FIRMLY AFFIXED TO THE GLASS SURFACE. This ensures that the entire design will cleanly transfer.
7. ALLOW COMPLETE DRYING TIME. The smallest amount of moisture can steam the decal from the glass surface., resulting in a partial transfer.
FIRING CONDITIONS
1. OVER-FIRING IS A MAIN SOURCE OF DISAPPOINTING RESULTS. Fusible Glass Decals are temperature sensitive; some colors more than others. The best results are achieved with lower temperatures and longer soaking times. LOWER, LONGER, not HIGHER, FASTER is a good habit to cultivate with most glasswork. The cure range for Hi-Fire Decals is 1325 to 1440
oF and for the Low-Fire Decals 1075-1140 oF.
2. GOOD VENTILATION in the studio is important for your health. GOOD VENTILATION in your kiln during the burn-out phase, (500-900
oF), is especially important for both the Hi-Fire and new Low-Fire, metallic decals. Maintenance of a good oxidizing atmosphere ensures bright colors and a lustrous finish. Our Studio Kilns sit directly under large window fans. We no only crack the lid 3 inches during the burn-out phase, (500-900
oF), we also place a second fan several feet away blowing directly across the kiln into the window fan, creating an oxygen rich environment inside the kiln and studio.
If you kiln is portable, setting it up out side and leaving the kiln lid vented during the burn off stage (500-900
oF), when the backing of the fusible glass decal is vaporizing, is a much simpler way of protecting yourself from any fumes.
ENCASEMENT
Encasing metallic decals require that you pre-fire up the lower end of the curing range. Polishing lightly with a soft cloth after cooling helps to get rid of impurities. Gold and platinum, unlike enamels, do not melt at fusing temperatures. Because of this, as the uneven layers of the glass are moving about during the fusing process, distortion is more problematic with the metallic decals. Using smooth glass, stacking layers a close to a 6mm, (1/4 inch), fused height as possible, and taking it up to nearly a full fuse will produce superior results!
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